Traveler Tim, known for his unconventional approach to choosing routes and modes of transport, recently shared his experiences traveling across China on a local train.
With Irish, Russian, and Armenian roots, he has a unique worldview, and he regularly documents his adventures on his Telegram channel. This journey became yet another proof of his motto: “If it rattles, smells, and is late — it’s mine.”
The first thing that strikes you in Chinese economy-class trains is the three-tiered sleeping bunks. Unlike European trains, which usually have two levels, these have three. The top bunk is so high that climbing it becomes a true acrobatic challenge, and lying there requires staying perfectly still, like a “dried fish.” Usually, the lower bunk is occupied by an elderly passenger, the middle by a family, and the top by an observer of everything going on.
Despite official bans, smoking on Chinese trains is commonplace. One of Tim’s fellow passengers cynically remarked, “Relax, it’s just a train,” lighting a cigarette from a hot-water boiler. Train staff seem largely indifferent, and sometimes even join in. The carriages are filled with a constant mix of cigarette smoke, instant noodles, and sweat.
Visiting the train restroom can be a real challenge. As Tim describes it, it’s a “challenge to God.” A metal hole in the floor, the lack of familiar toilets, and the constant shaking of the train turn the experience into an extreme sport, where you must cling to the walls and pray for accuracy. The smell and discarded cigarette butts add extra “flavor.”
A special category is “no-seat” tickets. Passengers pay for the ride but have no guaranteed seat. Standing is permitted anywhere — on a bag, on another passenger’s lap, or even on the head of a sleeping traveler. Tim describes people traveling this way for three days straight, managing to eat, drink, and sleep while standing upright.
The Chinese train is a true sociocultural performance. Men play mahjong on the floor, grandmothers boil eggs in thermoses, people loudly discuss family problems, children chew corn while making noises like playing a trumpet. It’s a live comedy unfolding before your eyes.
“Chinese trains are not just transport; they are a part of everyday life, a mirror of society. There are no European standards here, but the atmosphere is incredible, and it’s a chance to see the daily life of the country from the inside. It’s an enriching experience, but it requires full readiness for unconventional conditions.”
Fun fact: China’s railway system is the longest in the world, with a significant portion being high-speed lines. Yet, despite this, traditional trains — where scenes like Tim’s are still common — are widely used for domestic travel, especially over medium and long distances, offering more budget-friendly options.
